Button-hole attachment for sewing-machines



(Model) 4Sheets-Sheet 1.

T. POWELL. BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 442,695. Patented Dec. 16, 1890.

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BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MAGHINES.

No. 442,695. PatentedDec. 16, 1890.

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T. POWELL. BUTTON HOLE ATTAOHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 442,695. Patented Dec. 16, 1890.

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T. POWELL. BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 442,695. Patented Dec. 16, 1890.

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UNITED STATES ATENT FFICE.

THOMAS POWELL, OF FORT SCOTT, KANSAS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 442,695, dated Dsceinber 16, 1890. Application filed July 23,1388. erial No. 230,842. (ModeL) To ctZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMAS POWELL, of Fort Scott, county of Bourbon, and State of Kansas, have invented certain new and use ful Improvements in Button-Hole Attachments for Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

My said invention consists in the introduction of certain new elements into machines of this class and in the new and improved arrangement of new and old elements, whereby the working of button-holes in garments may be done on the ordinary sewing-machine.

The objects specially aimed at in my present invention are, first, durability; second, that simplicity in construction which willinsure that ease of management required to meet the wants of persons unskilled in the management of machinery; third, that fixedness of parts which will insure infallibility in performance; fourth, rapidity and certaintyin changing from one size of buttonhole to another; fifth, the ability to set for any given button not only in a moment of time, but with full assurance of fitting the same without trial or experiment; sixth, the ability to work button-holes over, or, rather, beyond, the thick edges that sometimes ocour in garments, and also across seams or other inequalities thatmaybe found in places where button-holes are wanted; seventh, to backstitch both ends of the button-hole for the purpose,not only of givinggreaterstrength where it is most needed, but for the additional purpose of securing the ends of the threads, thus obviating the necessity for employing hand work to complete the job; eighth, to be able to work the button-hole either before or after it is cut, and, ninth, to so construct said attachment that it can be adapted to a sewing-machine of any make by changes fewand simple.

The following is a clear and explicit specification of my invention, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which are made apart hereof, and in which similar letters of reference indicate similar parts.

Figure l is a perspective view of my button-hole attachment. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same. Fig.3 is a vertical cross-section Fig. 4 is a central vertical section on the line 4 4 of Fig. 2 Fig. 5' is a detail section online 5 5 of Fig. 4. Fig.

rangement of the intermediate mechanism,

also showing to the right the throat-hole and through dotted lines and a break in plate A the space milled out on the under side of the latter plate to provide for the play of the feeder of the sewing-machine, thus preventing it from striking or interfering with the bed-plate. Fig. 7 is a detail plan view of cloth-clamp and contiguous parts, a piece of fabric being shown also with a button-hole (somewhat exaggerated) represented as finished, while a second one is only partially completed. Fig.8 is an inverted plan of Fig. 7, with the addition thereto of one face of the polysided drum which lies immediately above plate 0 as it appears through the oval opening in the latter. Fig. 9 is a detail side elevation of the operating-fork pressurelever F and the spring and slide through which it is brought into action. Fig. 10 is a detail view of .the bracket A, Fig. 1, with the cam D removed so as to show the ratchet and other parts by which the cam is actuated. Fig. ll is a perspective view of a movable plate having a groove and rack which may be substituted for the drum H in building my button-hole attachments. Fig. 12 is a perspective view of another form of plate which may be used for the same purpose. Fig. 13 is a perspective view of a plate or block having a complete rack and groove constructed thereon, which may be made in sets of appropriate lengths and substituted in the construction of my attachment for other parts having the same function. Fig. 14 is an inverted perspective view of the hexagonal drum, exhibiting its racksections, the variable lengths of the latter, and showing the block 77. with its rack-section h in working position with one face of said drum. The lock-pin h", with its spring 7L5 and the several holes h in the said drum, by which said drum and block are held in working position, are also here shown. Fig. 15 is a vertical longitudinal section of a drum polygonal in cross-section within its case and showing in particular the lug 72 projecting from the body of said drum into the groove h of the shaft It so as to compelthe drum and shaft to rotate together and yet permit said shaft to be drawn far enough longitudinally to ing as its new and essential feature the transverse piece M, with slots m m m, the arm 0 with its hole 0 to engage stud o of the link 0, Figs. 7 and 17. Fig. 17 is an inverted plan view of the square sliding frame B, showing the transverse strips B E the shifting plate 0, resting in the groove formed by said strips, as shown in section in Fig. 15. Fig. 18 is an inverted plan view of the oscillating plate B, showing the clasps b l) and the arm Ct, by which it is attached to the bed-plate. Here is also shown the elasps B B B B of the square sliding frame 13, Figs. 2, 7, S, and 17. Fig. 19 is a perspective view of the bracket A, showing the relative position of the parts connected to it, the levers F and E being shown as removed from the stud a so that the slot G of the pawl-plate G may be clearly seen. Fig. 20 is a detail side elevation of the bracket A, with pressure-lever F in position on the stud a and showing by dotted lines how the pressure-foot is elevated by the action of the inclined end of the slide f against face f of the square notch in the base portion of the said lever. Fig. 21 is an inverted view of the bed-plate A, showing the shuttle-race slide A*, which, together with the universal washer A isthe means by which my button-hole attachment is secured to the sewing-machine.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, A is the foundation or bed-plate. B is an overlying plate, having an arm a, which is loosely embraced by a notch in the base of the bracket A, while the corners of said plate, which are remote from said arm, are turned downward and made to grasp the bed-plate, thus forming with the aforesaid arm and bracket not only a means of attachment to plate A, but also guides for its oscillating movements.

, Beneath the throat hole A in plate A at a, Figs. 4, 6, and 20, a recess is milled out to bridge the feeder of the sewing machine, and thus avoid interference. A piece is here broken out of plate A so that the feeder below may be seen. Plate A is also milled out on its upper surface near the opposite end to about one-half its thickness to provide a recess beneath the overlying plate B for the ratchet-wheel I, and the pawls, levers, and springs connected therewith, as shown in Fig. 6.

The pawls a of, the double spring a, and the releasing-lever a Fig. 6, are each riveted to the bed-plate A, while the ratchetwheel I is carried laterally to and fro by the overlying and oscillating .plate B, the said wheel having a boss on its upper surface which fits a hole Z), Fig.18, in said plate and serves as a pivot.

The oscillating movement of the plate 13 is communicated to it by the cam D acting upon the cam-rolls a, Fig. 6. The distance traveled in this oscillating movement is about three thirty-seconds of aninch, the length of the stitch employed in working button-holes.

. Since the pawls a and a are fixed to the bedplate A, while the ratchet-wheel I is carried to and fro by the plate 13, it follows that the teeth of said wheel are alternately and necessarily engaged by the aforesaid pawls and in such away as to cause it and with it the pinion J to revolve intermittingly from right to left. The pinion J is fixed tothe ratchetwheel I and carries upon its summit a roller K, and being pivoted into plate B the said pinion is enabled to drive the rack h, Fig. 4, with which it gears, and which is arranged to slide along said plate in a longitudinal direction, carrying with it the cloth-clamp L, Figs.

4, 7, and 8. To provide for the aforesaid movement-of the cloth-clamp, the latter is mounted on a frame B, which is provided at both its front and rear ends with atransverse strip B Fig. 8, the four ends of which are bent downward, so as to grasp the beveled edge of the plate B on opposing sides, thus form-ing the necessary guides, as well as means of attachment. The two transverse strips aforesaid, combined with the oscillating plate B beneath and the square frame B" above, are made to serve as a channel for the play of the lateral shifting plate 0, Fig.7. On the upper side of plate 0 and directly over the wide slot in the same is fixed the drum-case h, Fig. 1. In Fig. 4 this drum is shown in longitudinal section and in Fig. 3 in trans verse section. In the rear end of said drum is a fixed block 7t, having 011 its under surface a part or section of a rack. This section may be of any convenient length, but preferably with only two teeth, as shown in section at h, Fig. 4.

On each of the several faces of the hexagplementary to the section which is on the fixed block h. Surrounding these rack-sections, both on the block h and on the faces of the revolving drum 11, there is a groove h Fig. 8, which at all points is equidistant from the rack, and which, like the rack, is

composed of two parts, the one movable and the other fixed. When any given section on the drum is in line with the fixed section on the block it, a complete rack is formed, and

the groove is endless, as seen at h Fig. 8. On the top of the pinion J is the roller K. In operation the groove 72. engages the roller K, and through this means holds the pinion J in working contact with the rack 71., Figs.-

2, 3, and 4. Now when a rotary movement is given to the pinion J, the rack is-driven forward until the end of the rack is reached, when the plate 0 and with it the rackaforesaid shifts over, describing a semicircle in IIO obedience to the curved portion of the end. Having now passed less groove aforesaid. to the opposite side of the rack, the pinion continues its action upon it; but because of In order to secure strength and durability the'dimensions of the aforesaid pinion and its roller, together with the groove in which the latter travels, mustbe so great that the.

cloth-clamp wou1d,if attached directly to the plate 0, be carried so far laterally that the work of the needles intended for the parallel sides of the button-hole would be thrown'too far apart. To obviate this the modifying lever or link 0 is introduced, its rear end resting by means of a stud in the slot 0 in plate 0, its front end by its stud in the slot 0 in the square frame B,while a similar stud arising from it enters a hole 0 in an arm on the base of the cloth-clamp L. The said clothclamp base is slotted at m, Fig. 7, for the attaching-screw m and at m m for the guid-' ing-studs m m By this arrangement the link ooperates as a lever of the second class, 0 being the fulcrum, 0 the resistance, and 0 the power. The plate 0 therefore in its lateral movement carries the cloth-clamp by the pivotal stud 0 with it, but to a greatly modified extent, or only far enough for the clothclamp to bring the fabric in position for the needle to act upon the opposite side of the button-hole.

Since the shifting of the plate 0 takes place while the roller K is traversing the semicircular portion of the endless groove 77?, Fig. 8, it is manifest that the advance of the clothclamp will be gradually retarded until .the roller reaches thecenter of this semicircular portion, after which it will be accelerated until the parallel portion of the groove is reached, whence it will advance at an even rate, as on the opposite side. Itis further manifest that while the movement of the cloth-clamp is thus retarded in rounding these curves the needle of the sewing-machine maintains a constant rate, the result being that the stitches are not only placedcloser together, but that in the center of the curve they overlap each other,

- practically back-stitchin g the ends of the button-hole, and thus giving additional strength where it is most needed. The object in maklived block 7t, which will make up a complete rack of the desired length, and,second, to be able to avoid interference with pinion J and roller K, all of which is done by making changes only while the said pinion and roller are engaging exclusivelythe'fixed section on the block 7i, Fig. 4. lVhen the drum H has been placed in any given position, it is necessary that it shall so remain. To prevent trouble that would ensue from accidentally :or carelessly leaving the drum in such position that the rack and groove would be out of line, it is also desirable that when a change is attempted the drum shall automatically as fsume some one of its working positions. Both of these requirements are provided for and in the following manner: The shaft 77?, on

which the drum turns, is provided with a knob h with a serrated boss, (a tooth for each face of the-drum H,) which rests in a seat of similar formation and fixed on the drum-case h. To change for a different size of button-hole, the operator grasps the knob It", draws it out of its seat, turns until the proper number can be seen through the peep-hole, as at H, Fig. 1, and then, releasinghisgrasp, the knob h is driven into its seat bythe retraction of the spring h By this arrangement it is manifest that if the drum isturned either too far or not far enough the serrations on the boss and and its seat, combined with the action of the spring 71 will compel it to take a working position. The attempt to set the drum H when th pinion is acting upon that section of the rack which the drum carries would be liable to disarrange the machinery and cause trouble. Such attempt atv such a time is made futile by means of a lock-pin 71 which enters a hole in the drum H and there remains until it' is drawn by action of the roller K against the lower edge of the spring h, Fig. 5, it beingin the path of said roller as the latter rounds the curve of the groove on the fixed block 71,

Fig. 4.

To persons of a practical turn of mind the question will arise: Vhat can be done in case the thread breaks whilea button-hole is being worked? it being impossible to stop the machine at the very moment this occurs. Such an accident is fully provided for in my invention, and may-be readily understood by reference to Figs. 1, 2, and 6. I Here it will be tered in working button-holes by means of an attachment to a sewing-inachineis theini ability to always get the fabric in the cloth clamp taut enough to prevent itfroi'n lifting with each upward stroke of the needle. In such a case the loop is often so imperfectly formed that the shuttle fails to enter it, in which event the work is seriously marred by missingstitches. Another difficulty scarcely less serious has been encountered in the seams and other inequalities that are often found in or near the place where the buttonhole must be made. Both of these difficulties I have overcome in my invention by the introduction, as an element of my attachment, a pressure-lever with suitable foot whose function it is to hold the fabric firmly down upon the bed-plate A from or about the time the needle enters it .on the descending until it leaves it on the ascending stroke. Various devices may be used for th s purpose. In my present invention I have found it convenient to use the lever or arm F, Figs. 1, 2, and 4;. This is pierced at its rear end by a large hole, by which it is hung upon the same stud a that bears the operating-fork E. Extending forward from this stud it is curved laterally to the left until the hole or slot in its foot or extremity rests over or corresponds with the needle-hole in the bed-plate A. Its position on the stud aforesaid is between the fork E and the pawl-plate G, Fig. 10. In action it has a slight up-and-down movement.

At f Figs. 2 and 9, is shown a stud projecting outward from the lower front margin of the arm or lever F. On the rear end of the slide f is another stud f of similar form and function. Said studs are drawn toward each other by the spiral spring f Beneath the stud a" on which the pressure-lever plays the said pressure-lever is cut away, leaving a right-angled notch, as shown by the vertical and horizontal arms of the dotted line f. Provision is thus made for the front end of slide f to occupy the same plane with the said pressure-lever, while the vertical face f of said notch forms for said slide a suitable stop. The point of contact between slide f and the aforesaid stop is such that the pressure of the spring f is not only annulled by such contact, but is now exerted against the lower portion of the vertical face f of the pressure=foot lever and tends to release and lift the foot from the fabric. (See Fig. 9.) During this release of the pressure-foot the fabric is moved into position for the nextstitch. In order to bring the spring f to bear downward upon the pressure-lever the operatingfork E must descend un tilthe stud e is brought into forceful contact with the horn f of the slide f. This action begins at the moment the needle enters the fabric and ends when it emerges from it on its upward stroke. The pressure thus afforded obviates the lifting of the fabric, insuring a perfect loop and therefore the unfailing action of the shuttle at all times, and especially during the crossing of seams and other inequalities.

Referring again to the stud c, Fig. 9, I desire to show that it has another function than that of throwing the horn of the slide out of engagement with the presser-foot lever to cause the spring f to press the foot down. Its length is such as to reach inward beyond the horn f into a short slot G in the pawlplate G. During the descent of the fork E in which it is fixed the front end of the pawlplate G is forced downward for another bite of the pawl g upon the ratchet-wheel d. Returning, it engages the opposite end of the aforesaid slot, driving the pawl-plate upward, rotating the ratchet-wheel d and with it the cam D, to which it is attached.

The cam D may have any convenient number of turns, but these must coincide in number with the teeth in the ratchet-wheel d.

In order to facilitate attachment to various machines I have provided the universal washer A Figs. 1, 2, and 6. It is beveled on its lower edge to fit a corresponding bevel in the bed-plate A, and is suitably held in position. By loosening these screws it may be turned until some part of the slot a is in position to admit the gage-screw of the machine. On the right margin of the bed-plate A, Fig. 2, is the button-gage Q, having six divisions, numbered from 1 to 6, inclusive. These correspond in length with the racks described in aprevious paragraph and point to corresponding numbers on the front end of the drum H, as shown at 1-1 Fig. 1.

Having now fully described the construction and action of its several parts, I will now briefly describe the action of my button-hole attachment as an entirety.

Removing the presser-foot and the back shuttle-race slide of the sewing-machine, the slide on the under side of the bed-plate A is caused to take the place of the one removed. At the same time the fork e of lever E is caused to embrace the needle-screw of the machine. The gage-screw is then passed through the slot a in the universal washer A and driven home, binding the attachment to the bed of the machine. My attachment is now in readiness, provided the cloth-clamp is at its extreme forward position. If not, operate the treadle of the machine until it assumes this position. The fabric is now placed between the jaws of the clamp, and the leverN is brought over forward, as in Fig. 1. The button to be used is now laid on the gage Q and the size noted. Then grasping the knob h, draw it from its seat and rotate it until a number appears at the peep-hole in the front of the drum-case which corresponds with the size of. the button, as indicated by the gage. On operating the machine the motion of the needle-bar is transmitted by the fork E to the cam D, which in turn causes the plate B to oscillate in a lateral direction, carrying with it the clotlrclamp. It is so arranged that these movements shall be effected while the needle is out of the fabric. Because of the combined oscillating and longitudinal movements of the cloth-clamp the needle is caused to pierce the fabric alternately right and left, advancing meanwhile up one side of the hole and returning automatically down the other to the starting-point, leaving behind a button-hole which can scarcely be equalled by any other means and at a rate of speed about fifteen times that of the most facile hand.

Having now fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A button-hole attachment for sewinganachines, comprising a pivoted lever, a slide, and means for holding and moving the fabric, the presser-foot lever and operating-lever having an engagement with the slide, and a spring connecting the slide With the presserfoot lever, substantially as set forth.

2. In combination, the supportirig-bracket provided with studs projected from its sides, the cam \vheel carrying a ratchet- Wheel mounted on one of the studs, a pawl-plate carrying a spring-actuated pawl to engage the ratchet-wheel, a presser-foot lever and an operating-lever, the pawl-plate and presser-foot lever and operating-lever being mounted on the stud on the opposite side of the bracket, a cloth-holder, and intermediate mechanism connecting the cloth-holder and cam-Wheel, substantially as set forth.

3. In combination, the bed-plate provided with a recess, the reciprocating plate carrying the ratchet-wheel I, the latter located in the recess in the bed-plate, actuating-pawls secured to the bed-plate Within the recess and adapted to engage the ratchet-Wheel, and spring-actuated levers for releasing the pavvls, substantially as set forth.

i. In combination, a reciprocating frame carrying a ratchet-wheel, a pair of pawls secured to a support stationary with respect to the reciprocating frame and held in engagement with the ratchet-Wheel, and a fabriccarrying mechanism actuated by the intermittent motion of the ratchet-Wheel, substantially as set forth.

5. The combination, with the fabricfeeding mechanism and a pair of pawls for actuating the said mechanism, of springs for holding the pawls in engagement with their Work and a pair of releasing-levers vithin convenient reach of the operator for releasing the pawls against the tension of the springs, substan tially as set forth.

6. In a button-hole attachment for sewin machines, the combination, With a bed-plate provided with an opening therethrough, of a Washer seated in said opening so as to rotate freely therein, and provided with an elongated slot for the passage of the ordinary gage-screw of a sewing-machine through the bed-plate, and which may be turned so as to register with screw-holes in varying positions in difierent machines, substantially as set forth.

7. The fabric holding and feeding mechanism comprising the frame B, the clampingframe secured thereto and having a limited movement relatively thereto, a frame secured to the frame Bso as to have a sliding movement relatively thereto, actuating mechanism secured to the said last-named frame, and a lever fulcrumed on the frame B and connecting the two frames secured thereto, substantially as set forth.

8. The combination, with the frame B,provided With the guidestrips B and the guidestuds m of the clamping-frame L, provided with slots to receive the studs m the sliding frame 0, provided with an opening to receive actuating mechanism, and a reducing-lever fulcrumed on the frame B and having a loose connection with the frame 0 and frame L, substantially as set forth.

9. The combination, with the frame B, provided with the guide-strips l3 and the guidestuds m of the sliding frame secured between the strips B the clamping-frame secured on the studs m the sliding frame and the clamping-frame having parallel motions, and a lever fulcrumed on the frame B, its short arm connected with the clamping-frame and its long arm connected with the sliding frame, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

10. The combination, with the reciprocating plate B, of the plate B, having a motion transversely thereto, the plates L and O, linked together and having motions transverse to that of the plate B, and means for communicatingthe motion of the plate B to the plates B, L, and O, the Work-clamp, and means for actuating the same, substantially as set forth.

1.1. The combination, with a rotary drum provided with a single rack-section and aseries of rack-sections arranged to supplement the single rack-section, of a fabric-clamp connected with the racks, a pinion in engagement with the racks, and means for actuating the pinion, substantially as set forth.

12. The combination, with a rotary drum provided with a single rack-section and a series of rack-sections of various lengths arranged to successively supplement the single rack-section, of locking mechanism for holding the rack-sections in alignment, a fabricholder connected with the racks, and means for actuating the racks, substantially as set forth.

13. The combination, with a rack-section surrounded by a guide-groove, a rotary drum provided with rack-sections on its periphery adapted to supplement the single rack-section, a serrated boss, and a series of teeth adapted to fit the serrations in the boss, one secured to the drum-support and the other to the drum, the said serrations corresponding to the several racks, of a fabric-holder connected With the drum and means for actuating the drum, substantially as set forth.

THOMAS POWELL. \Vitnesses:

HARRY HODGES, A. D. WILLIAMs.

ICC

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